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There’s no shortage of ingredients claiming to help hydrate and plump parched skin. It’s why Allure has a whole index section dedicated to dryness. But when you need a moisturizing boost that lasts, there’s one hydrator that stands out: ceramides.
While humectants like hyaluronic acid pull moisture from the air into the skin, and occlusives like shea butter lock that moisture in, ceramides are in their own class called emollients. “Ceramides can smooth and soften the skin by filling in the ‘gaps’ between skin cells, and help skin retain moisture by fortifying our protective barrier,” says Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in Beverly Hills and the founder of Ava MD and Skin Five Medical Spas.
Their multitasking ability—to bolster the skin's moisture barrier while simultaneously hydrating—is what makes ceramides such a worthwhile addition to your skin-care regimen, according to skin experts. Studies have shown ceramides to be beneficial for alleviating the symptoms of those with eczema and psoriasis. Ceramides are unique as an ingredient, says Dr. Shamban in that they work for every skin type from the most irritated and sensitive skin to those with breakouts to the ultra-dry.
Brands have caught on to the power of ceramides, and there is no shortage of products to add to your routine. To help you determine the best way to incorporate this unsung skin-care hero into your lineup, we asked the experts to explain what makes ceramides so effective, the ingredients they pair best with, and exactly what’s happening below the surface of your skin to make them an immediate add to cart.
- Hadley King, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- Ava Shamban, M.D., is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in Beverly Hills and the founder of Ava MD and Skin Five Medical Spas.
- Jeanine Downie, M.D., is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Image Dermatology in Montclair, New Jersey.
- Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist out of Cincinnati, Ohio with expertise in skin care.
- What are ceramides?
- Neat, but how do ceramides actually work?
- What makes ceramides different from other moisturizers?
- Why do I need to add ceramides to my routine?
- What are the benefits of ceramides?
- What’s the best way to boost your ceramide levels?
What are ceramides?
“Ceramides are one of the building blocks of the skin,” explains Jeanine Downie, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Image Dermatology in Montclair, New Jersey. Like hyaluronic acid, ceramides are naturally present in your skin: “Ceramides are part of the complex lipids, or fatty molecules, produced within our skin cells present in the stratum corneum [or outermost] layer,” explains Dr. Shamban. In simple terms, they are the good fats. “Ceramides can compose up to 50% of our epidermis and are key to maintaining moisture and retaining a plumpness to the skin,” says Dr. Shamban. When your skin is flaky, cracked, or feeling dry, that’s your first clue that your ceramide levels are low.
What's more: Ceramides are also an integral component of the skin’s barrier, says Hadley King, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in NY. “Ceramides are thought to be the most important component for maintaining barrier function,” says Dr. King.
And besides trapping in moisture, they also do a good job of helping to keep things out, says Dr. Shamban. “[Ceramides] play a key role as the first line of skin ‘defense’ against external toxins, pollutants, and other environmental factors,” she explains.
Neat, but how do ceramides actually work?
Dr. Shamban uses a common analogy when referencing ceramides, likening the skin to the construction of a house. “If skin cells are building blocks [or bricks] to build our house and the outer layers are like roof shingles layered on top of each other, ceramides work like the mortar between the bricks holding the layers intact and the glue keeping the shingles laying tight, flat, and smooth—or in the case of our skin, locking or sealing in the moisture so we maintain a smooth, healthy structure,” says Dr. Shamban. In other words, ceramides hold everything together, creating a seal that keeps the good nutrients and moisture in and the bad pollutants and allergens out.
What makes ceramides different from other moisturizers?
There are three main types of moisturizers that all work together and with different modes of action to help keep skin hydrated, explains Dobos. Humectants, like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, pull water from the air and bind it to the skin. Occlusives, like shea butter or plant oils, help form a physical barrier on the skin that traps moisture to prevent transepidermal water loss. Emollients, like ceramides, help to smooth and soften the skin by filling in the gaps between your skin cells for a smoother look and skin feeling.
According to Dr. King, “A good moisturizer needs to contain the combination of humectants, emollients, and occlusives. You really need all three for optimal moisturizing properties.”
Why do I need to add ceramides to my routine?
While your skin already has a natural supply of ceramides, several factors can deplete those levels over time. Recent studies have shown age has a significant impact. According to Dr. Shamban, your skin begins to lower its ceramides production in your 30s and that continues to decrease into your 40s on up. Combined with lower levels of collagen and elastin, which also plummet during this time, skin begins to look and feel compromised. “The rapid drop in estrogen that occurs during perimenopause is a significant contributor to skin aging,” says Dr. King. “There is a 30% drop in collagen during the first five years of menopause, according to a study, and this is likely why women start noticing fine lines and wrinkles as they approach or enter menopause.” It’s this drop, says Dr. King, that leads to everything from lower levels of hydration to a weaker barrier and a loss of elasticity, hence the importance of ceramide-infused skin care.
According to Dobos, environmental factors can also be a culprit for ceramide depletion. “ Cold weather can negatively impact ceramide levels,” she explains. “Conditions like atopic dermatitis and psoriasis can also be marked by changes in ceramides.” Downie notes that smoking of all types (includes vaping), can also deplete ceramides.
And, if you’re guilty of loading up on active ingredients or harsh exfoliating acids, Dr. Shamban says that it can be another likely source of low ceramide levels. “We have to a certain extent become an over-exfoliation nation,” she says. “Disruption of our skin barrier causes damage that leads to skin dysfunction and loss of ceramides as well as our ability to maintain balance and moisture.”
What are the benefits of ceramides?
By adding ceramides to your routine, says Dr. King, you help to support skin barrier function and, depending on what type of skin you have, that can equate to different benefits. “For dry skin, that may be most helpful because it helps to lock in moisture, while for sensitive skin, it may be because it helps to lock out irritants,” explains Dr. King. “For oily and acne-prone skin, it's still important to support the skin barrier and lock out potential pathogens like bacteria that contribute to acne, and to help keep the skin from becoming dried out or irritated from acne medications like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinoids.”
What’s the best way to boost your ceramide levels?
If you want to get the most out of this all-star ingredient, Dobos says to reach for a leave-on product (like serum or moisturizer) rich in ceramides (versus a cleanser since it gets washed off before it can be effective). Dr. Shamban likes to use ceramide products after humectant serums. “You help to bring water in [with the serum] and then the ceramides help regulate and store the moisture within the cells keeping the balance.” To take it a step further, lock everything in with an occlusive like a moisturizing plant oil or rich cream with squalane, petrolatum, or shea butter.
Recent studies have also shown that there are some scientifically backed benefits to ingestible ceramides. While more research needs to be done on the merit of these products, Dobos notes that there is some interesting data on clinically tested ceramide supplements. If you’re looking to eat your way to a healthier skin barrier, Dr. Shamban says to load up on vitamin C, which has proven benefits for enhancing the production of skin barrier lipids. “Vitamin C can upregulate the metabolic enzymes needed to make ceramides, thus supporting the production of barrier lipids and the epidermal barrier function,” she says. “There are also some additional phyto-ceramides we can eat to help support the skin barrier and our natural ceramide production including soybeans, sesame seeds, wheat germ, and millet. Wheat and soy contain a high amount of sphingolipids which contribute to boosting our ceramide production.”
On the hunt for a ceramide hydrator to add to your lineup? Keep scrolling for quality products at every price point.
A ceramide-based line (hence the “Cera” in “CeraVe”), the brand is a dermatologist favorite for its gentle formulations that won’t irritate sensitive skin and ultra-moisturizing products enriched with three different ceramides to reinforce even the most compromised skin barriers. This lightweight, mattifying gel makes it suitable for acne-prone and oily skin types.
Rub on this TikTok-famous moisturizer for deep hydration and barrier repair—without the heavy residue that many nourishing creams tend to leave behind. The secret, according to Joyce de Lemos, Dieux's co-founder and chief of product, is a mix of ceramides and a meadowfoam seed oil derivative that acts like a ceramide.
Ceramides have been shown to have a soothing effect on the symptoms of atopic dermatitis (AKA eczema), so a daily lotion packed with the anti-itch powers of colloidal oatmeal and barrier-building ceramides is a solid choice to calm the symptoms of those dealing with the irritation that can come with this inflammatory skin condition.
A hybrid toner and moisturizer—and Allure Best of Beauty 2023 winner—this milky cream is formulated with peptides and ceramides, delivering the intense hydration of a moisturizer with the ultra-light feel and quick absorption of a liquid toner.
Ritual's skin supplement is infused with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid and Ceratiq (a wheat oil containing glycolipids and ceramides). The hydrating supplement recently conducted independent, randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical testing in a study of 63 women and men that showed it reduced wrinkles and fine lines and improved skin smoothness in 90 days.
Basic in the best way, this face moisturizer is made with hyaluronic acid, allantoin, and ceramides to gently hydrate even the most sensitive and reactive types. The extra cushiony texture soothes on contact and absorbs lightning fast.
Protect your skin from sun damage as you smooth, hydrate, and add a sunlit glow with the newest iteration of Kosas’ beloved peptide-and-ceramide-infused mineral SPF. If sunscreen tends to make your skin sting or break out, this hydrating and comforting formula could be your Goldilocks pick—literally.
Safe for everyone from babies on up, this face and body moisturizer combines shea butter, niacinamide, and ceramides to create the ultimate calming cream. It’s been shown to reduce dry, rough skin and prevent it from recurring by strengthening the barrier and providing long-lasting hydration.
More on hydrating skin care:
- 15 Best Ceramide Moisturizers & Serums to Nourish Dry, Irritated Skin
- 16 Best Barrier Repair Products to Replenish Dry, Damaged Skin
- How to Give Yourself a Spa-Level Facial at Home, According to Experts
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