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Don't have time to make it to the spa, but your skin is practically screaming for some attention? A DIY facial should not be underestimated. Sure, you may not be able to emulate the perfectly positioned finger strokes of your facialist, and rarely does anyone's bathroom have a seashore as the actual background noise, but a lot of good can still happen right at home.
Allure spoke to top aestheticians and they confirmed you can make your skin smoother and softer and more radiant with the help of hard-working products and simple techniques. And this isn't something that should be saved only for special occasions or dire moments. “Consistency is key,” says Edyta Jarosz, an aesthetician at Shafer Clinic in New York City, who emphasizes the importance of maintaining your skin in between regular spa appointments. “Find time at least once a week to give yourself a facial.”
On that note, pour yourself a cold glass of cucumber water, turn on your favorite playlist, and follow these expert-approved steps for some serious pampering.
- Joanna Czech is an esthetician with studios in Dallas, Texas and New York City, and is the founder of Joanna Czech
- Hadley King is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
- Mona Gohara, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Hamden, Connecticut
- Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and New Jersey
- Gary Goldfaden, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Goldfaden MD
- Edyta Jarosz is an aesthetician at Shafer Clinic in New York City
- Georgia Louise is an aesthetician with her own Atelier in New York City and the founder of Georgia Louise Skincare
- Vicki Morav is an esthetician in New York City
- Sofie Pavitt is an esthetician and the founder of Sofie Pavitt Studio and Sofie Pavitt Face
- Joanna Vargas is a facialist with spas in Los Angeles and New York City and the founder of Joanna Vargas
How to give yourself a spa-level facial
Follow these five simple steps for a happier face:
The first step should always be to create "a clean palette," says facialist Joanna Vargas, whose namesake spas are located in Los Angeles and New York City. To make sure everything — makeup, dirt, pollution — comes off, aesthetician Georgia Louise recommends a double cleanse, which combines two forms of cleansing for an ultra-deep clean finish. Reach for an oil-based cleanser or balm first to melt away stubborn mascara and remove dead skin cells while still keeping the lipid barrier intact, Louise says. Work the product in using circular motions, then use a damp, warm washcloth to wipe everything away.
After a thorough rinse with warm water, follow with a foam- or cream-based facial cleanser. "Creams are more gentle, so they’re technically [better] for anyone who has sensitized skin," Vargas says. "Foam [cleansers] usually keep pores cleaner." If you have areas that are particularly oily or congested — like the T-zone, which includes your forehead, nose, and chin — be sure to target the cleanser there (massage it on these areas for a few extra seconds) and into all the nooks and crannies of the skin, Louise says.
The easiest way to smooth things over is with an exfoliating product. This step helps slough off dead skin cells and remove excess oils to ensure that the active ingredients will penetrate and you get the most out of the other steps, Vargas says. There are two ways to get glowing: physical and chemical exfoliation (meaning the ingredients work under the skin's surface). The latter tends to be more gentle and suitable for sensitive skin.
"People with oilier complexions have larger sebaceous glands, which makes their skin thicker and better able to tolerate more abrasive particles," Gary Goldfaden, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Goldfaden MD has told Allure. “Those with drier, sensitive skin should use products with smaller granules, which are less likely to irritate, cut, or rub your skin.”
If you're a face-scrub fan, some Allure favorites include Dr. Loretta Resurfacing Enzyme Polish, Beekman 1802's Milk Scrub Oat & Goat Milk Exfoliating Cleanser, and Aveeno Positively Radiant Skin Brightening Daily Scrub, all three of which are 2023 Best of Beauty winners.
Prefer a chemical formula? Louise suggests swiping on one that contains a blend of chemical exfoliants such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). She cautions not to go overboard on this step, which can cause damage to the skin's protective lipid barrier. Aesthetician Sofie Pavitt agrees. "I recommend keeping your acid exfoliation to just one product within a skin-care routine," Pavitt says. "By doing this, you're not going to overdo it and strip the skin's moisture barrier."
Some top chemical exfoliant picks include Biologique Recherche Lotion P50, RéVive Enzyme Essence Daily Resurfacing Treatment, and SkinMedica Even and Correct Brightening Treatment Pads, which Jarosz recommends, even for sensitive skin.
Now is the time when you get to sit back and relax. But first — what are your top skin concerns? Breakouts, dryness, dullness, sensitivity, lack of firmness, dark spots? Your answer and skin type will determine which mask will be most effective. The bottom line on face masks is to treat whatever issue you have going on, Vargas says, and that's ever-changing. If your skin is oily and prone to breakouts, a clay-based formula helps to absorb excess oils and detox skin. Feeling parched or generally have dry skin? Look for a formula designed to replenish hydration; Vargas recommends seeking out ingredients like hyaluronic acid and vitamin B5. For smoothing lines, Vargas suggests using a face mask that's formulated with peptides and antioxidants.
For oily, acne-prone skin, two of our favorite clay face masks are the Caudalie Pore MinimizingPore Minimizing Instant Detox Mask and The Outset Purifying Blue Clay Mask, both formulated with kaolin clay. If hydration is your primary masking goal, try Kiehl's Ultra Facial Overnight Hydrating Face Mask.
If you have a stocked pantry and time to kill, consider whipping up a treatment of your own. “Be cautious when using the raw forms of spices and foods that are different than similar ingredients found synthetically in products,” says Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Hamden, Connecticut. For those prone to redness, aesthetician Joanna Czech suggests mixing uncooked, ground oatmeal and flaxseed in a 1:1 ratio, then adding just enough water to make a paste. Let it cool, then apply and allow it to sit on the skin for 30 minutes. For instant brightening, grab an egg and a tablespoon of plain Greek yogurt. Whip up the egg white until frothy, then add yogurt. Leave the mixture on for 15 minutes to reveal the appearance of tighter pores (courtesy of the albumen in egg whites) and a brighter complexion (from the lactic acid in yogurt), says Shani Darden, a Los Angeles-based aesthetician. And if hydration is your goal, a half-cup plain Greek yogurt mixed with half an avocado and a quarter cup honey can do wonders, says Vargas.
Elevate your masking session with a gust of steam. The practice of facial steaming can help hydrate and soften the outer layer of skin, New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D., has told Allure. "It can also promote circulation and soften up keratinaceous debris and sebum," King says. We love the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Pro Facial Steamer and Vanity Planet Aira Ionic Facial Steamer but Louise notes that you don’t need a fancy at-home device to reap the benefits. Her suggestion: “Fill a bowl [with] hot water and position your face over the bowl with a towel over your head to let your skin 'open up' while masking. A good old-fashioned bowl with slices of oranges will do a fantastic job of softening the skin and opening the pores.” Skip this step if you are prone to redness.
After washing off the mask, “follow with something that soothes, calms, or restores barrier, such as a cream with glycerin, niacinamide, ceramides, or squalene,” says Dr. Gohara. (Some of our favorite hydrating facial serums include La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum and SkinCeuticals H. A. Intensifier.) Following your serum, apply a layer of your favorite nourishing moisturizer. For an ultra-luxurious option, we love Caudalíe Premier Cru The Cream. Listen to what your skin needs (Is it super dry or not so much?). “Sometimes, you don't need so many lotions and potions. Simplicity is best,” says Jarosz
While your skin is noticeably dewy and the products are still absorbing, give yourself a facial massage to boost blood circulation and lymphatic drainage. "It is important to use very hydrating, rich ingredients as the skin is massaged," Morav says, to make sure you have a bit of slip. Begin at the chin and gently stroke outwards, Louise suggests. Similarly, Jarosz likes to “massage the skin in circular motions, with your fingers, starting at the decolletage and working upwards.” She suggests five to ten minutes of these motions. Follow a similar pattern on all areas of the face, including often-neglected spots like behind the ear lobes, around your nostrils, and the center of your forehead.
You can use your fingers, a jade roller, or a gua sha tool — whatever you have on hand — without pushing too hard. “The idea is to go lightly and focus on draining versus rubbing,” says Louise.
How to set the mood
"We are surrounded by so much noise, so I find it important to create an ambiance for oneself," says Morav, whose own spa-like set-up at home includes an essential oil diffuser, candles, music, and crystals. Once all the hard work of cleansing, exfoliating, and masking is over, Louise suggests lighting a candle, playing some calming music, and then giving yourself some “lymphatic love” with a gentle massage.
Vargas likes to do an at-home facial while soaking in the bathtub because "it feels super luxe," adding that "music is a must." Turns out there's a reason that's the consensus: “Because music can have profound effects on the nervous system and can reduce the compounding aspects of stress, we use music as a tool to support emotional and physical health,” Tammy Fender, aesthetician and founder of Tammy Fender Holistic Skin Care and two eponymous spas in Palm Beach County, Florida, has told Allure. But what's on Spotify all comes down to your personal preferences. "I don't play raindrops," says Czech, who has Pink Floyd, Dolly Parton, and Van Morrison on repeat at her New York City and Dallas studios.
What not to do during an at-home facial
There are certain aspects of a professional facial that are best left to the experts. Topping that list is extractions, which, tempting as they may be, can lead to scarring and worsen inflammation associated with a breakout, says Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City and New Jersey. If you have allover inflammation or irritation, skip a facial altogether. "The poking and prodding can stoke the fire,” says Dr. Gohara.
Also on the list of DIY no-no's are certain devices, or rather, a combination of them. Before you try something on your face, “test it somewhere else first [like on your arm],” suggests Dr. Gohara. And if you'd like to incorporate a device — whether an LED light or a microcurrent device — limit yourself to one per facial. "Various devices, when used at home, can lead to potential injury to the skin, make the skin worse, or lead to scarring," Garshick says.
More ways to pamper your skin at home:
Done reading? Now, watch and learn about the history of face masks:
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